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Clothing
Helmet
Your helmet is this first thing you
should buy. Sure all the other gear is necessary but if you receive a head
injury it may end you climbing forever. These helmet are so lightweight and
comfortable that there is no reason to not wear one. Why is it so important?
Remember that mountains are made of rock and falling rock or some piece of
dropped equipment will hurt at the very least. However one of the greatest
benefit is when or if you fall. No it won't help if you drop 2000 feet but
if you are tied off and you should be, the you will swing and usually right back
into the face of the rock. A helmet should fit snugly and
comfortably, but should also be adjustable enough to fit a toque
(stocking cap) underneath. You can buy a decent one for about one for about $75.
Now that we have given you reason to
wear on it is also advisable to not climb with anyone who isn't wearing one as
you may witness something none of us need to see or they may well become your
burden.
Harness
By a harness we don't mean a rope
around the waist. When selecting a harness, comfort is
the biggest concern. Padding in both the leg loops and waist belt is worth a few
extra bucks when you're hanging on the rope. Don't worry about adjustable leg
loops; just make sure you try on the harness with the bulkiest clothes you'll
wear climbing. Quick-release buckles holding up the back of the leg loops are a
nice feature when nature calls. An independent belay loop connecting the fronts
of the leg loops and waist belt make attachment of carabiners (aluminum snap
links) quick and convenient. A top-of-the-line harness should run less than
$100.
Shoes
Many climbs can be done in hiking or
approach shoes, but specialized rock shoes make the job easier and more fun.
There are a dozen shoe manufacturers and four times as many models to choose
from. The number of variables are reduced once a type of shoe is selected. The
beginning climber needs an all-around shoe: something that does a little
of everything. This shoe will perform moderately well in all conditions, be
stiff enough to support a beginner's weaker toes, and be comfortable when worn
all day. In the store, the shoe should be tight enough to allow for later
stretching, but not overly painful. The best stores have a climbing wall to test
the shoes. A careful climber will spend most of her equipment-purchasing time
trying on shoes; don't be in a rush. Buyer beware of the mail-order sale shoe
without first trying it on! Expect to pay between $100 and $150.
EQUIPMENT YOU CARRY
Rope
Construction
Modern safety ropes may look like
other ropes, but actually have special distinctions. A climber's rope has a kernmantle
construction: a soft and supple nylon sheath, usually multi-colored,
protects the real "working" part-- the braidedcore. Of the two
types of kernmantle ropes-- dynamic and static-- only the former
is used in climbing applications. As implied by the name, a dynamic rope
stretches, lessening impact on both the climber and her equipment. A climber
won't use a static rope because the lack of stretch creates too much force on a
safety system, creating dangerous and painful results.
Choices
There are more types of kernmantle
ropes than choices of ice cream combos at Baskin Robbins. Among the options are
length, diameter, "dryness" coatings, and even color. Many ropes are
constructed in Europe, so dimensions are listed using the metric system.
The most popular length is 50
m (165 ft.) and many climbing routes are set up using this standard. A shorter
rope is not very useful; a longer rope is a specialty item usually not practical
for most rock climbing applications.
The thickness or diameter of
the rope is the main factor in durability and strength. An 11 mm diameter rope
is most commonly found at the local crag and will suit most climbers just fine.
Skinnier ropes are lighter, but shaving a few pounds is not usually worth the
sacrifice in wear resistance.
"Dry" coatings are
only important in snowy or icy conditions where the rope may absorb water and
become heavy or even frozen. A standard or non-dry rope will be perfect for rock
climbing in most conditions. Buy the more expensive dry rope when you start
climbing frozen waterfalls.
As unimportant as color may
seem, it will play a factor when rappelling (sliding down the rope to get to the
bottom of a cliff) with two ropes. More and more ropes are being constructed
with a sheath that is bicolored; each half has a different pattern. This is a
fancy feature that allows a climber to quickly locate the center of the rope (an
important point when rappelling) or be able to estimate the amount of unused
rope at a glance.
The Bottom Line
Consider all choices carefully.
Buying a rope can turn out to be like buying a car-- there are always bells and
whistles that bump up the price tag. All the ropes are strong enough to catch a
falling climber. Be sure to check that the rope is approved by the UIAA (the
international union that oversees climbing equipment standards). A 50 m long, 11
mm diameter standard rope can be purchased for under $150.
Gear
The most expensive has been left for
last. Every climber always needs another piece of gear, so don't expect to buy
everything at first. Just the essentials are enough for now.
A belay device catches a
fallen climber on the rope and allows rappelling by bending the rope. The most
versatile is the tube device. It is lightweight and simple to use. A
shopper shouldn't pay over $20 for one.
The carabiner or biner
is the staple of a climber's hardware. The biner is the connecting link for each
part of the safety system and can be opened or closed as needed. The two main
variations are locking and non-locking. Locking biners are for
especially critical areas, such as the belay device or your personal tether to
the anchor, and have a screw-mechanism that prevents opening of the gate. A
starter kit requires four "lockers" (about $9 each) and eight
non-locking carabiners (about $5 each). It's a good idea to get at least onepear-shaped
biner with a wider opening that makes belaying and rappelling easier. It should
cost less then $20.
Slings or runners are
strong pieces of nylon that span distances to anchors or protection pieces
(solid points connecting the safety system). Runners hold thousands of pounds of
force, but nonetheless require redundancy. As a result, several versatile
runners should round out a beginner's gear collection. One-inch tubular webbing
is easy to find and inexpensive (less than 50 cents per foot). One each of
30-ft, 20-ft, and 10-ft lengths should suffice for most starter situations.
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