1 - 2' X 5' Roll of 1/4" hardware
cloth (1/2 " could also be used.) (about 6 dollars)
1 roll of stainless steel tie wire (nylon ties can also be used -
black last longer) About $1.95.
In our constructed example
we utilized a couple of different methods where possible to give you a choice.
Note for safety reasons we recommend folding all cut edges over to help prevent
injury on the wire ends. In some instances we refer to the number of 1/4 square
grids as a measurement as it is a fairly simple method of measuring. It you are using an alternate
type of material you can allow for 1/4'" for each grid.
Cut a piece of the hardware cloth 2' by 28" long.
Fold over and in the first 2-3 grid rows along the raw
cut edge to prevent you from getting stuck by the sharp wire edges.
Results in a cylinder about 8 1/2' in diameter.
Hold it in a cylinder shape with the 2 folded edges
overlapping each other.
Weave the wire in and out of the grid squares to fasten
the two edges together, or use your nylon ties.
Cut from the remaining cloth either a semicircle (
recommended) with a 9 1/2" radius - or 3 triangles
9" by 7 1/2".
Gently fold the semicircle in half along the straight
edge to create a funnel shape and connect the 2 halves of the straight
edges together. If you are using the triangles you will need to
connect all 3 pieces together along the the long edges.
Cut the pointed end off off the resulted funnel shape
to make a hole about the size off an old silver dollar or 2" in
diameter.
Insert the funnel into the cylinder. and fasten.
Don't be concerned it if seems to be a bit of a mismatch as you can trim
off any excess or draw it up where you might be short.
Next choose a location on the side of the cylinder to
place your door. Count off a square of about 18 - 1/4 square grids by
18. Mark the corners, then using a marker draw a line crisscross from
corner to corner.
Cut along the crisscross line, then fold the triangle
flaps inside tightly and fasten to prevent them from dropping down. This
will give you a nice clean hole to work through.
Cut a piece of cloth 30 squares wide by 54 long.
Fold this in half at the 27th grid. Then with it sandwiched fold 3 grids
of both plies of the remaining raw edges. This will make your door.
Lay the door over the opening, overlapping it by about
3 grids all the way around, and using your tying material create 2 hinges.
At this point you can decide whether to create a fancy spring
clasp or do as we did and just use a tie as a door latch.
Commercial crawdad fishermen just drop the bait into
the trap an allow the crawdads to feed on it until it is all gone or the
trap is pulled. However you may choose to either suspend the bait just out
of reach, or create a bait box which is fastened to the bottom of the trap,
in a location that makes it easy to replenish the bait after you have
emptied your catch. If you are making a bait box
then cut a piece of hardware cloth
in the shape of a cross. We used multiples of of 12 grids to create ours.
You then fold and fasten the sides while leaving the top flap as a door.
This is the same concept as is used in a bait minnow trap except the hole in
the funnel is smaller.
Just so you know: We went out and bought a mass produced commercial
Crawdad trap from a local tackle store and baited both our homemade and
the commercial with the same bait (chicken) and placed them about 10 feet
apart, to see how ours would fare against a seeming proven design.
We don't know why but night after night our homemade crawdad trap out did
the store bought unit 15 to 1. We would have 60 to 75 after each
night and the commercial unit had only about 4 to 5. Go figure. Maybe the
vinyl coating deterred them or the size of the hole (which was larger)
allowed them to crawl out come daylight. It would be interesting to see
hppw it compares to one made out of primitive material and not the
material we used. Keep watching.
See the results of 1 night about 60 keeper size crawdads
and this is out of a seasonal creek about 7 feet wide.
